Wood Talk #135 – Hurley’s Ash

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Special thanks to our show sponsors: Festool and Arbortech.

On today’s show, we’re talking about Japanese chisels with Wilbur Pan, getting the most from a dust extractor, planing one side of a board, veneering, storing left-over finish, and ash for hurleys.

What’s on the Bench

Shannon is having trouble working maple because it’s hard. Matt is trying his hand at sharpening his hand tools. Marc is having fun making an ellipse and also recommends folks join his Woodworking group on GoodReads.com.

News

Not enough white oak for a Mayflower replica.
Scott Meek is auctioning off a Mesquite smoother for charity to benefit Oklahoma.

Around the Web

A car made from wood.
Making a secretary desk.
Saw sharpening video from Andy.

Poll of the Week

Have you ever made a chair?

Kickback

– Jim has some thoughts and insights on the supposed decline of woodworking in America discussed in Episode #134.
– Keith gave us some insights on the origin of Handworks 2013 as discussed in Episode #134.
– WoodChuck sent in a link to these fancy setup blocks for lock miter bits, as discussed in Episode #134.

Email

– Mariah wants to know if the cheaper Japanese chisel sets are worth it. Wilbur Pan steps in to help us answer the question.
– Chris wants to know if he can get away with using a Festool dust extractor for his larger tools.
– Keith is curious if milling stock from one side of a board will cause it to warp.
– Dusty is looking for veneering advice. Marc recommends he check out VeneerSupplies.com.
– Scott has questions about storing oil-based finishes after mixing. Marc recommends Bloxygen.
– Paul has some questions about using Ash to make hurleys.

Reviews and Thanks!

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12 replies on “Wood Talk #135 – Hurley’s Ash”

hey now.

great show. in regards to veneering i cant help but stick with either better bond titan dx or regular contact cement. contact cement and a nice veneer scraper go along way. i understand why vacuum presses are so desirable, have had no issue not using one (and we are talking over a 10yr period where the veneer still looks like it has on day 1).

i called lee valley once and i had a discussion about this topic. they suggested old brown glue or hide glue and gave me the “this stuff has lasted 100’s of years and still holds work done a century ago.” personally when is enough enough. most of the stuff that is veneered is mdf or particle boards. ive used nothing more than contact cement and a scraper in high traffic areas that get wet and never had an issue.

thats another thing, a lot of these wood and veneer glues can be reversed with heat and some even when exposed to water. contact cement is permanent. if you need to you can even start working a file on the edges right away- i dont like to do that personally but sometimes on site you dont have a choice.

theres a million ways to skin a cat- i have not needed to use a vacuum press- but that doesnt mean it cant benefit you.

The shows and your sites are great. I haven’t listened to one show that I haven’t enjoyed.
And the web sites you come up with are something else. The car was kind of neat. And if the building of the secretary doesn’t give you something to aspire to as a woodworker, then you must be dead. I’ve got to try watching the saw sharpening (2 hours and 15 minutes, wow) before I try sharpening my father’s old Disston D 23 that dates from around 1950. Even though the chances that I would actually cut something with are low, I don’t want to ruin it.

I have been doing some veneering over the last few years. I built my own bag and it was much cheaper than buying a bag. All you need to do is go to a Boat repair shop and buy clear window vinyl then glue up your bag with vinyl cement. You can buy the cement and valve from VeneerSupplies. My 4×4 bag was about $45 and you can make any size you want.

for doing an elipse the easies way is to use a piece of string and two nails in the focus point. the focus points are half the major axis marked of on the major axis from the top of the minor axis if u set the string the length of the major axis is will allow u to run a pencil in a perfect elipse or even a router 🙂

On hurleys they are irish sports sticks and u want ash to have the root grain at the base so the grain isn’t straight making the toe strong so it won’t crack along the grain.

Love the show Rick

Shannon’s “ah-ha” moment on planing both sides of a board was actually taught by none other than Norm, dating back to season 3, episode 5. Just happened to watch it on DVR just this past week.

Talking about looking for a sawmill – check your state’s DNR website.
For example here in MN they have a listing of many sawmills – including many of the small players that aren’t just the Wood Mizer owners.
http://webapps1.dnr.state.mn.us/timberproducer-rails/companies/filter
I think the person said something about NY. If so, check out:
http://www.dec.ny.gov/docs/lands_forests_pdf/primary.pdf

Now – some of the people listed might not have what you are looking for or are only willing to sell wholesale, but an hour or two on the phone and you can probably find someone who has or can cut pretty much anything you desire to air dry.

Don’t get me wrong – check out the Wood Mizer listings as well. They are yet another resource.

The episode is broken and does not work on itunes either. I also tried a few of them after and none so far seems to work, seems like your database has gone bad for some of these old episodes. Please fix when you can as I am hold to try and catch up to the recent episodes! 🙂 Thanks

I really enjoy the shows!!!

I found this about 1 year ago and have started back at episode #1 and have made it through 135 (enjoying every minute of them .. well.. almost every minute ;~))

I am trying to listen to them in order and am having problems downloading #136-#211. Seems #212 downloads …

Is this something to do with the server migration? If so, I will check back later. If not, perhaps it is something on my end. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated!

Thanks again for the knowledge, insight and humor!

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