Kaleo came out to see Marc while visiting family after returning from Australia. Nicole, Marc, and Kaleo went to In-N-Out Burger for lunch. The next episode of The Wood Whisperer will also feature Kaleo.
Matt is going to take an all-day class with “The Schwarz” called ‘The Forgotten Art of Handsaws’. The class will be in Strerling Heights, Michigan. Matt has also found this to be a convenient way to pick up a few new tools.
Marc is looking to start attending more live classes and schools to learn new things and broaden his experiences in the woodworking world.
Lie-Nielsen is running around 30 days out on orders due to the overwhelming demand. Are other tool manufacturers this covered up with business? Could there be a big resurgence in the craft? Or maybe more people are realizing the difference between finely made tools compared to those found at a big box store?
A couple of new products:
* Powermatic Air Cleaner – Featured on the back cover in the last issue of Fine Woodworking.
* New router offerings and multi-function table from Festool that are due out in May.
Voicemails / Emails
Ben – Connecticut
I have a question about designing a table in general, but in particular a desk I’m going to try to build. I’m in the military and I move every few years so any piece of furniture I build has got to be able to be put on a moving truck and not get destroyed and be able to be moved around the house. I’d like to build solid legs that don’t come apart, but that’s really not practical. Most commercial furniture has bolts to fit in the corners to fit in place. I’d like to do something better than that, but still have legs that detach. Is there any way to design the legs of a table in general but a desk in particular so that they come apart? Would something like a stop dovetail joint be appropriate? Would that work without glue in it?
I just bought myself some Forstner bits and when I got them out of the box… well, I don’t understand how they’re going to cut a flat bottom when they have what looks like a brad point in the middle of the bit that is clearly going to have to go deeper than the rest of the bit. So, in the center, there seems to be a centering point that would help keep the bit aligned and steady as it makes that first initial cut, but how am I going to get a flat bottom out of that? Are there two different kinds of Forstner bits? One that has a flat bottom and the other than has the little centering widget there?
Jim – New Jersey
I just finished watching Marc’s episode 6 on jointers and planers, and I’ve got a quesion. I don’t own either one, but I do have a pretty good router setup with a router table. I’m just curious, if I was buying just a planer to plane both sides of a board, that would give me both faces parallel then use the router and router table to edge joint the faces. Would that work? Just looking to get some feedback to see if I’m making the right decisions.