WT319 – MyCremona Dot Com

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On today’s show, we’re talking about Ductless Mini Splits VA PTAC in the shop, cutting accurate miters, sticky poly, and dealing with dank basements.

What’s On the Bench

  • Marc is planning a grandfather clock
  • Matt cleaned out his shop and gave a bunch of lumber away
  • Shannon is building a workbench

What’s New


  • Mark has advice for the messed up workbench from episode 318


  • Zachary Hansen wants his voicemails
  • Vinny wants to know if he should stage his shop in order to sell his house
  • Chris has sticky poly, how to fix it?


  • Matt wants to install AC in his shop and wondering between PTAC and a mini split.
  • Leigh is putting his shop in a dank basement and wondering about controlling the dank…not the dank!
  • Riley wants to make mitered frames and doesn’t have a table saw.

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6 replies on “WT319 – MyCremona Dot Com”

Good evening guys and great episode as always. This question is for Shannon: Will your workbench build be confined to the Hand Tool School or for mass consumption at Renaissance Woodworker?

I have listened to several shows that talk about reactive finishes curing in the can before one has finished using it. I have found, as mentioned on the show, that pouring just the amount you need at the time and shooting a good spray of argon gas into the can before closing is the best solution. I have tried “Bloxygen” and it works. But the price seems high ($15/can). So I went to my local gas supply company and purchased a medium cylinder (gas bottle) filled with industrial grade argon and an inexpensive helium balloon regulator/gauge with CGA fitting (same as argon CGA) and attached some plastic tubing to the nozzle. The total cost was $140. You can also rent cylinders for about $2-3/month. The re-fill cost is about $45. The cylinder holds 40 ft3. The Bloxygen holds 0.23 ft3. So for my initial investment, the cylinder argon costs $3.50/ft3 and a refill cost of $1.13/ft3. The Bloxygen costs $65/ft3. I have used Waterlox over 6-9 months, opening a dozen times with NO change in viscosity, like new every time. Having the original virgin viscosity and unreacted finish % is a big plus for consistent finishing. I’ve been using the cylinder for 4 years and it is 1/2 full. I am even thinking about purchasing finish in gallon cans to save money, knowing that I have an ample supply of argon to shoot into the can at every use.

Hey guys, I just wanted to chime in on the table saw safety video idea. As a relatively new woodworker with a small Jobsite table saw I know that I would benefit greatly from some onsite on things to do and not do with the table saw. I’ve had a few small kickbacks but am not sure exactly what caused it. Hope to see the video or if you could recommend a good resource that would cover table saw safety as a whole that would be great.

And by the way Marc, you moving your shop from your dream shop to something else makes me cringe. Enough said…

Do you really need a table saw anymore?

For sheet work I find that using one of those straight edge clamps and a circular saw works just as well and I don’t have to have a permanent footprint for a table saw that without extensions would have trouble handling a 4×8 sheet without some extra setup. A set of 4 saw horses and I’m set. For crosscuts I’m using the same setup for big pieces or as an even quicker alternative I use my 12″ sliding compound miter saw.

Just curious as to your thoughts? The first “major tool” I ever bought was my Delta job site table saw that I used to build a cedar fence…way prior to the existence of the modern compound sliding miter saw. Even now it’s sitting in my basement and I’m wondering am I missing some reason to keep this old table saw or would I be better off with the space?

To each his own of course, but I’d be lost without my tablesaw. When it comes to solid stock, repetitive cuts, and joinery, the table saw is still king in many regards. But if you find you really don’t need it for your work, then you have your answer.

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