WT337 – Dusty Plumber’s Butt

Download Mp3

On today’s show, we’re talking about oil finish in a low powered turbine, installing opposing drawer slides, and notching corners.

What’s On the Bench

  • Marc is getting his shop set up
  • Matt is cursing Marc for jinxing his Bandsaw Mill project
  • Shannon did some Spring cleaning in the fall

What’s New

  • Matt shared a video about shipbuilding in Britain.
  • Nathan shared #whimsyarchitecture on Instagram, not sure what is going on here but its some cool eye candy work.

Kickback

  • Chris had an issue with his track saw track bowing when he clamped it and creating a bowed cut line
  • Shane shared the blade maker from last week’s Car Plane video as HNT Gordon and video on how they make their blades.

Voicemail

    • Adam has questions about his uninsulated shop
    • AJ wants to know how he can make a consistent chamfer on a table top

Email

      • Matt wants tips on spraying oil based finish in an HVLP gun
      • Nick wants to know how to cut notches on inside corners
      • Mike is worried about the screws interfering on opposing drawer glides

How You Can Support Us

Use the links in the left column and sign up for a recurring donation, or you can be cool too and support the show through our Patreon campaign at kick it up a notch and wear a Wood Talk T-Shirt, or leave us an iTunes Review

4 replies on “WT337 – Dusty Plumber’s Butt”

Hi guys.

Marc, I can’t believe I’m offering you advice on building a shop, as you are somewhat of an expert at it by now. I’ve just about finished with mine, I took the same approach you were talking about in WT337. I had an existing “shop area” in my basement, complete with extension cords, inadequate lighting, and plenty of cursing. I decided to make a proper shop but wanted to keep a somewhat functional shop while doing it. I was also concerned about getting the tool layout correct and didn’t want to commit to too much up front. I did multiple sketch up plans, but realized I still needed to get everything in place to be sure the layout would work. I framed the walls, then moved everything in and adjusted the layout. I then added lighting and electrical. Next I went section by section and installed drywall and plywood in some areas. This allowed me to move a few tools out and work on a section of wall, while keeping the rest of the shop operational. I’m in the process of going section by section again and finishing the joint compound and painting. I have to say that I’d probably take the same approach again. It allowed me to get up and running quickly and finish everything over time.

One bit of advice on the electrical. You should look into what is called a multi-wire branch circuit. It sounds strange at first but does meet the NEC code. Basically you install a double pole breaker and run 3 conductor cable (2 hots, neutral, and ground) to each outlet. At the first outlet you grab the black for power, the second outlet uses red for power, and keep alternating down the line. The beauty of this is when you need a 220 outlet, you have the black and red already there so you just need to wire them up. You can then continue with 110 outlets after the 220. This has already paid off for me, I upgraded one of my tools recently and needed a 220 outlet instead of 110. I did my shop with 20 amp circuits, you would still need a dedicated line for tools needing more amps of course. At first glance this seems like a bad idea, 2 hots feeding the power and 1 neutral for the return, it seems likebit would overload the neutral but that’s not the case. Since each hot is 180 degrees out of phase the neutral can actually wind up carrying less current than the sum of the 2 hots. I did discuss this with my local inspector first, he was familiar with it and said it was fine.

Thanks to all of you guys, I’ve really learned a lot from this show and your individual sites.

For the drawer slide question you could always put the slides at different heights for adjacent drawers if there is enough vertical room which there normally should be.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.