On today’s show we’re talking about should you bottom out your tenons, plywood potato chips, and a plywood workbench
And today’s show is sponsored by Brusso Hardware! Be sure to check out Brusso’s Photo Extra newsletter. It’s is a weekly update from Brusso, dedicated to customer-submitted photos. Brusso’s customers work on detailed projects including ring boxes, humidors, keep sakes, gun boxes, and furniture. It’s an excellent source of inspiration for your next project. The newsletter is short, quick, has great photos, and is delivered right to your inbox. To sign up visit Brusso.com/photoextra.
What’s On the Bench
- Marc is starting on crest rails for his chairs
- Matt is editing Highboy footage.
- Shannon is finishing with EnduroVar and wants to know why he should ever switch
- Justin shared a video of a guitar build
- Chris shared a video of a tree cross section on a record player.
- Dr Alex shared a craftsman who makes huge wooden clocks
- Adam wants Marc to pick up his dog poop
- Colin thinks Marc should be the Oily Internet Woodworker something or other
- Bob is disappointed in Shannon for not getting his music reference
- Kyle got a boo boo
- Stephen worries that epoxy on a cutting board would dull his knives
- Peter thinks Marc’s nickname is Poops McDomino
- Matt wonders about the Jet 10″ jointer
- Matt is having problems with his scrollsaw templates
- Ryan wants to know how to determine if a log has figure in it
Lumber Industry Update
Shannon talks about the conglomerate nature of African Mahogany (Khaya) and how the paint colors and sawyer marks on the end can help get the same species.
- Wayne wants to know if his tenons should bottom out in the mortise
- Rory wants to buil
- Stephen had some plywood door cup badly
How You Can Support Us
Help us out over at Patreon and kick it up a notch by wearing a Wood Talk T-Shirt, or leave us an iTunes Review
7 replies on “WT399 – Poops McDomino”
re: Matt and his problem with scrollsaw patterns. Using blue or green painter’s tape as you mentioned is a good fix. Also, depending on the size of the area to cover, clear Contact shelf liner works great too. It can cover larger areas without seams. Either one leaves no residue and by covering the wood he can glue it down without concern. I use 3M #77 on one side for my patterns and both the paper and wood when I want a more permanent adhesion. If the corner does lift on him he can easily retack it with a glue stick or hold it in place with a toothpick, pencil, or something similar. Hope this helps.
For Matt having an issue with his scrollsaw. Rather than gluing his template down to the wood, it is much easier to use carbon paper to transfer the pattern he wants to cut out.
Mark already has a nickname – he was the first to get one. Does anyone remember “The Money Whisperer”?
Gah! Marc, Not Mark! I’m not the money whisperer!
For scrollsawing Matt. Put contact paper on the wood then glue your template to that.
I have made scroll saw projects for years and used blue tape and then finally a company made what scrollers have always been asking for. https://www.thewinfieldcollection.com/product/Scroll_Saw_Tape_Adhesive/Glue This is 8.5″ wide double sided clear tape on a 5′ or 20′ roll. I held off trying it for a while because it sounds expensive but then someone pointed out how much blue tape costs. And an occasional can of spray. Plus there is no odor or glue on your workbench (and fingers) and since it’s clear you can line up the pattern with parts of the wood you want to use or avoid. Also since I’m guessing he doesn’t already know he should check out http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/ this is the most extensive scroll saw resource I am aware of and it is all free!
RE: scrollsaw templates I agree with Paul on using carbon paper.
Another solution I have had success with is using a full sheet sticker paper like this one:
You can use your printer or hand draw on the sheets. I haven’t had issues with glue residue yet experienced good adhesion.