It’s show #482 For August 26th, 2020, and today we are cleaning out our inbox with a Q&A show.
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Emails
- Christian asks why sliding table saws are so rare in North America
- Jeremy keeps dropping his lathe chuck, try a Nylon washer
- Ehsan asks how to prevent end grain from absorbing so much finish
- Elliot asks about the merits of making an outfeed table lower than the table saw.
- Owen is worried his shoulder plane adjustments at the tenon will draw his project out of square.
Use a story stick - Brad wants to make outdoor furniture from a tree he felled and wants to know if he should dry it to “indoor furniture” dryness or if he can work it wet.
- Kyle wonder what joinery method would be the fastest yet strongest for those with little shop time who want to build things quickly. We suggest a dowel jig or Kreg pocket screws
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Social Media Homework
What joinery method would you choose if speed and efficiency were of utmost importance. Used it? Send us a picture and explain why you chose that joinery method. Use the hashtag: #woodtalk482.
2 replies on “WT482 – Premium Thong Oil”
#woodtalk482
Hello Woodtalk.
You may have left out one of the quick and easy joinery methods, which I have come to use more and more… that is, shop-made loose tenons. Maybe it’s not as quick and dirty as pocket holes but it’s way quicker than traditional mortise and tenons and way cheaper than the Domino. Just cut the pieces to length, rout a couple of mortises, and the joint is done. No worries about making sure that all of your shoulders are co-planar. No extra math to account for length of the tenons. Strong as heck. No visible joinery.
Linked below are pics of four recent-ish project with loose tenon joinery:
– Guild dining chairs (the middle one is my prototype so it’s a little different)
– A dresser made using the Guild chest of drawers construction methods.
– An art deco-ish mirror
– Art deco-ish bedside tables, with the design borrowed from the shop of Mr. Joel Liebman of Easthampton, MA.
Finally!!! Festool is the biggest bargain in the world! I would not trade my track saw for every european style sliding table saw ever made! Ok, I am a professional cabinetmaker. European style sliding table saws are a GIANT waste of space, 16′ on the Y axis and 8′ on the X. If you are in a small shop, forget it! Super awkward to rip, standing out on the side with a repugnant little fence. Crosscut is excellent with aid of a scoring attachment. As long as you use some other method to break the sheet down, AKA, a festool or a cheap ass safety cut. The best set-up, IMHO is a left tilt american style table saw with an out feed table in the same plane, over cut slots for the mitre gauge, for all ripping of hardwood and joinery. Paired with a “REAL” panel saw. Like a HolZer or Streibig, which is the only way to process sheet goods accurately and effectively.