WT45

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Regarding 110 volts vs 220.

Generally the only reason to go to 220 volts is when going with larger horsepower motors when 110 volts just will not deliver the needed power.
Power is calculated by multiplying the voltage by the amperage.
110 (volts) X 15 (amps) = 1,650 watts which is equivalnt to 2.21 horsepower. Using a more powerfull table saw like a 3 HP would require 20.3 amps at 110 volts but would only require 10.15 amps at 220 volts.

With a 20 amp 110 volt outlet it is not a good idea to consistantly draw more than 80% of the 20 amp rating so going with a 220 volt feed is a good idea. You could go with a 30 amp 110 volt setup but it is more common to go to 220. Check out an electric range or dryer they go with 220 volts 30 amps. Lots of power!

As far as efficency, yes 220 is more efficent since it requires half the amperage compared to 110 at the same HP. Less amperage results in less heating loss in the wires. The actual % increase in efficecy depends on the actual current draw , length of wire from the outlet to the electrical service panel and size of wire used so it varies house to house but the saving is generally only a few %. For a home wood worker the tool is not actually running for more than a few minutes at a time and the actual cost savings in your electric bill is negligable.

I think people sometime assume that running off 220 is somehow more powerful. I have several machines what could be wired for either and I leave them at whatever they were prewired for since it’s the same power either way: 110V at 14amps = 220V at 7.5 amps. The motor runs just as powerful either way… the slight practical different is that the higher amperage associated with running at 110 is a bit more taxing on the motor. But unless you’re running a pro shop and your motors are running much of the day this shouldn’t really be an issue.

So if your wires and breaker support your machine, just plug it in and go to town! One word of advice… many machine’s specs will say that they draw 15 amps for example… well, on average they may draw 15 amps, but under significant load and at startup they often require much more… so always attempt to put such machines on higher capacity circuits… i.e. a 110V @ 15amp machine should really be on a 30amp circuit.

I admit I don’t know all the specifics of 110V vs 220V. Yet, having used both 110V and 220V machines, I prefer the 220V variety. I can’t say specifically why, but they seem to perform better.

I would think machines wired for 220V would experience longer motor life. But like Charles said, the difference for a home woodworker would be negligable.

I’m wondering if the rust remover Matt spoke of is similar to using Cola. Cola will clean rust and most anything else from metal. Anything acidic will work. When I was in the Navy, we used to soak grimy, brass deck drains in Kool-Aid. After soaking overnight, the deck drains would be shiny and new looking!

For a super low VOC spray finish that works well, you might want to check out USL.

http://www.targetcoatings.com/oxford-spray-lacquer.html

You ain’t kiddin’ Keith! I will have to try their stuff out. I have heard of it before, but had no idea how low the VOC is on their stuff. Thanks!

I went ahead and changed all my electrical motors over to 220 because everything just runs better. No more blowing the breaker when ripping stock. I used to blow the breaker with my contractor saw all the time when ripping. Not at all ever since switching it. So I changed everything I could over; bandsaw, radial arm saw, drill press, jointer. The only motor I couldn’t change is on my 12 1/2 in planner. That still blows a 15 amp breaker. Although it is better on a 20 amp breaker. Claude

Submitted on behalf of Jeremy who called in about the handplane makers in Australia:

Hey Matt,

I really enjoyed being part of the Woodtalk Online live session on Wednesday evening (Thursday lunchtime in Sydney). It was cool being in the chat room and being able to communicate with you guys in real-time across the world.

I was the troublemaker who asked you and Marc whether you had seen the hand planes that two guys in Melbourne were making. One is an infill rebate plane and the other is a Coffin smoother (coffin shaped not for the smoothing of coffins). Here are the threads that I mentioned on the Woodworking Australia Forums:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=80588
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=80704

What is very cool about these two threads is that lightwood (Peter McBride) has made a number of these planes himself already (and he is a jeweller by trade and so pretty handy with the metal side of the task) while Ray G. (Ray Gardiner) is a guy who has done a lot of work making and restoring hand saws, but this is his first go at making his own metal plane, and Peter is acting as his on-line tutor.

What it shows is that this is not beyond guys like you and me who do our work in the basement, and it has the advantage of being something that doesn’t take up a huge amount of space. These guys have really inspired me and I thought you might find some inspiration here as well.

Just for completion, here are the web sites for Peter and Ray:

http://www.petermcbride.com/oldtools/
http://www.backsaw.net/index.php

Be seeing you soon

Jeremy
posted by: Jeremy Kriewaldt (jmk89) on Thu, 11/6 04:59 PM EST

Festool almost always sells for MSRP where DeWalt generally sells for less than MSRP. I would guess that after the honeymoon with this saw is over it will sell for just under Festools price point.

Wood Talk

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