What’s on the Bench?
Marc finally finished up the Hall Frame article and the Barbecue Cart for the Better Homes & Gardens 48-hr Blog Challenge. With an impending move and a new shop build on the horizon, its a busy time in the Spagnuolo house. Matt recently attended a class with “The Schwarz” and tells us all about it.
Around the Web:
The Saw Dust Chronicles 30 Day Challenge
Woodworkers Safety Week 2009 starts Monday.
Don’t keep your chargers plugged in: Tool Crib article
Registration for Woodworking in America starts tomorrow!!!
Furniture Construction and Design Aug. 14-16 in St Charles, IL
Hand Tools and Techniques Oct. 2-4 Valley Forge, PA
Sign up for the Wood Whisperer Giveaway!
59″ Parallel Pro Clamp 4 Pack
Regular Catalog Price $149.99 (4 clamps)
E-Direct Special Offer $104.99 (4 clamps)
Zach wrote in and asked:
“I just recently began listening to your show, so if a similar question has already been asked, I apologize. Anyway, I’m very new to woodworking and I’ve become a bit discouraged as of late when I’m working on a project and things don’t really come out as I had planned, or I just flat out destroy something. So, did either of you guys experience anything like that or do I just really need to slow down and think things through more?”
Jimmy from Sweden wrote in and asked:
“Please ask your European fans if there is an good online store for woodworkers in Europe.
I am trying to get an hold of a combination blade from Freud for an 30mm arbor with no luck.”
No Name – Outdoor wood recommendations.
Roberto – Refinishing a gun stock.
Cheap chisel protectors.
8 replies on “WT54”
In France, I used to buy all my tools at Leroy Merlin or , they have a online store :
For your particular request, it seems like they carry Bosch and SmartTool (?) for brands. Is Freud a must ?
But of course you need to understand French a little bit.
I don’t know if they ship across Europe but if you need, I can send an email and ask.
Anyway, if you need more help, fell free to contact me : email@example.com
Thanks Loupitou, I don
Hi Jimmy/Matt/Marc/Loupitou 🙂
I am from France as well and the best place I have found so far is in England :
with the current exchange rate it is quite interesting (even with shipping) and they have a lot of references in store (unprecedented for me so far).
Jimmy, you might find your combination blade.
My regret in Europe, well at least in the Euro zone, Festool is very expensive 🙁
I envy you oversea. With US prices, I would already have all the power tools I need.
Hi Oak, Nice site thanks!.
They have some nice CMT blades.
Anybody have any exeperience with CMT??
About the Festool in Europe I agree!!!!
RE: FWW Outdoor Finishes Article
Nice article – but in one respect it was a bad test, because each product was applied ‘per manufacturers instructions’. Some got 2 or 4 coats – Epifanes got Seven – yes – 7!
It would have been far better to have all prducts applied the same way – or at least one set of samples done all the same way, in addition to Manufacturers instructions.
My guess is almost any decent phenolic/alkyd ‘UV resistant’ Varnish might hold up like Epithanes if 7 coats were used!
For the Epifanes procedure, see:
1 coat 50% thinned dry for 24 hours.
1 coat 25% thinned dry for 24 hours – sand w/220.
1 coat 15% thinned dry for 24 hours – sand w/220.
4 coats or more – thinned 0-5% 24hrs, sand wetdry 400
I’ll bet the $15/qt stuff comes pretty close to the $45/qt Epifanes if you bother to go thru all that!
I noticed that too and that’s an excellent point!
Re: Gun Stock. I’ve restored SEVERAL M1-Garand Walnut stocks for myself and friends, and a few other stocks in general.
This might sound crazy, but before I hit the stock with anything to strip it down, I put it in the dishwasher with no soap or anything. I did this wehen I lived in an apartment, but now that I built a PVC pipe steamer, I use that. They both work equally well. This pulls all of the oil, and grease, and anything else out of the surface of the wood (For instance, on M1-Garand’s, they were stored packed in cosmoline grease).
Never, never, never, ever ever ever, never, touch that stock with sandpaper to remove finish (more on this later), unless you aim (no pun intended) to change the ergonomics of the stock. You don’t want to run the risk of deforming the wood. If you must remove finish, use a stripper. I use a no VOC product called Franmar Soy Gel. It literally gets into the grain and buckles the finish off. The only bad thing I have seen with this is the film it leaves on the wood. It is easily cleaned with plain water, but because I run the wood in the dishwasher again to soften the dents and pull them out again, it doesn’t make a difference anyway. If you still have dent’s, use a steam iron to pull them out.
Now the most important thing: Let the stock dry for a few weeks….the longer the better.
Since your piece of wood has seen multiple water treatments, it is likely that the grain will now be raised. With a light (and I do mean very light) sanding of 220 to knock the grain down, all will be well. Don’t press hard on the work, and let the paper and your hand follow the wood. If the surface appears scratched, go progressively smaller until you are happy, but generally, I’ve had no issue with 220 grit. With walnut, the grain standing up is a little bit of an issue, but not as much of one as with other wood stocks.
Now the finish. With military restorations, which is generally what I go with, I use boiled linseed oil in wipe on fashion, in very thin coats, leaving at least 24 hours in between curing time. In the winter here in Texas, I will lengthen that to 72 hours. Generally, I will cut the linseed oil into a 75% oil 25% spirits mix. If I am not getting the absorption I want, I will go 50-50, but it takes time to play it by ear.
If you’re not looking to go that route, and want more or a presentation instead of a utility finish, go with a product like Birchwood-Casey’s Tru Oil.
Oh, and I forgot to mention, use 0000 Steel Wool in between linseed oil applications.