WT238 – Vinegar Pie

Today’s show is sponsored by SawStop. Check them out at SawStop.com!

On today’s show, we’re talking about curing finishes in the oven, small shop miter saws, and hardware for connecting cabinets

What’s on the Bench?

  • Marc is matching grain for his Sculpted Rocker
  • Shannon sharpened his lawnmower blade
  • Matt is playing with the reveal on his drawer fronts

What’s New?

    • Steve came across an article and I thought if you replace “quilt” with “furniture” it would make sense for furniture making.
    • David sent us a video of Mark Supik turning a massive half sphere table.

  • Kay sent us an article about a cool new chair and wonders if this is the future of woodworking.


  • Dave bought some Craig’s List lumber and had kind of a mixed bag experience.
  • Zach isn’t sure about using a thin kerf blade on a SawStop
  • Ira thinks he learns a lot more form someone who recently learned something over the grizzled veteran.
  • John uses a glue size recipe from Lee Valley to control blotch in his woods.


    • Scott is wondering if he can use his oven to speed up the curing time on his small project finishes
    • Jeff wants to know what would be a good sized miter saw for a small shop


  • Kevin wants to know if there is an elegant way to connect cabinets together. We suggested connector bolts from Rockler

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9 replies on “WT238 – Vinegar Pie”

Marc, you mentioned the Kapex is the only sliding miter saw you can push up against the wall. You forgot about the Bosh glide series.

Hey guys. I have a kickback to Zack’s SawStop riving knife issue discussion. A full-kerf blade is .125″. A thin-kerf blade is usually 3/32″ or .094″. The riving knife is still thinner than the thin-kerf blade. I think Zack’s issue has to do with the riving knife to blade alignment and/or the rip fence not being parallel to the blade, both of which are adjustable. I have a 3HP SawStop PCS and I have used the Freud Premier Fusion thin-kerf blade without any problems.
Thanks and keep up the great work. Best podcast (woodworking or not).

re: 8 inch or 10 inch or …
I would vote for 10 inch if we don’t have sliding feature. I don’t know what difference that makes in the footprint, but I would expect a lot more utility with the larger format.

When I first got the new (to me) PowerMatic 2000 (10 inch, 3 hp) I was a pretty proud little woodworker upgrading from my old-ish contractor model. The fellow who was at the house doing the rough framing and install of double french doors with sidelights looked at it and said, “oh, I see you only went with the 10 inch model. Why didn’t you get the 12 inch model?” Oh, budget, room, awareness, got a nice deal on like-new, no reason especially. A few hours later he is using his portable worm drive saw to cut down a very large header.

Guess it depends on the type of work you do…or might do. Along with budget, space, etc.

re: small shops
My shop is small enough that by removing the knob from my BenchCrafter leg vise I improved my pathways by roughly 30%. And lessened thigh bruises by 40%. On the other hand, once I roll things into the driveway I have considerable space to work and walk about.

Regarding the space issue with the compound sliding miter saw, they make folding miter saw stands. My buddy has the same Dewalt miter saw and I believe the stand is Dewalt as well. The thing folds up and you can wheel it off to a corner or wherever.

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