*NOTE* Folks who downloaded this episode immediately upon publication may have heard a few naughty words. For the first time in 284 episodes, I botched an edit job. As soon as someone made me aware of my error (a few hours after publication) I pulled the file down immediately, re-edited, and posted the new one. So if you were one of the unlucky (or lucky, depending on your viewpoint) people who heard me curse, my apologies.
Today’s show is sponsored by TableLegs.com. Free shipping on first orders over $50. Enter “Wood Talk” in special instructions when you place your order.
Also by Brusso Hardware. Use coupon code ‘WT2015‘ for 10% off orders at Brusso.com and check out their new video on installing knife hinges located on their Facebook page.
On today’s show we’re talking about dealing with a scratch while finishing, getting a distressed look, and concerns with thin wooden components.
What’s on the Bench?
- Marc is adding final coats of finish to the gaming table
- Matt just watched hotel porn…err woodworking videos
- Shannon refurbished a compass plane and had a cage match with is spokeshave.
- Marc was on MakerCast the Podcast
- Brian sent us link to a cool multi-function table
- Marc shared a video of DW drums in production.
- Matt shared a wooden bathtub that he wants to soak in.
- Nate reported back after we read his email in a previous show to say that he was able to level the finish on his table top that had a detiorated lacquer finish by using multiple coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal.
- Freezin’ Woodcraft has a question about staining Maple
- AJ is looking for some advice on the lamination stage of his new workbench
- Vinny questions the cross contamination debate with wooden cutting boards and says Thanksgiving is the true test…and he loves Shannon
- Kenji got a scratch in his table top finish and wants some advice on removing it.
- Luke uses a lot of thin woods for his boxes and wants to know how to keep them flat after resawing.
- Crickett is building a Hayrake table and is looking for advice on distressing the finish.
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19 replies on “WT284 – Wood in the Bathtub”
Should have been titled ‘F-Bomb Edit’ or ‘Marc Needs a Mouthwash’.
And everyone thought I was the bad seed LOL?! If
You’re one of those listeners who complains about my jokes or such, I’d be happy to extend the f-bombs in the next episode CHORTLE!
LOL unedited Matt can be very scary!
It will take a lot more than a few bad jokes and a couple of curse words to upset this big boy. So feel free to continue with the lame jokes and dirty words.
The Wood Whisperer cursed twice!? What next, Shannon using a table saw? Now I don’t know what to believe!
Me giving advice people will actually use? Which I do!
Not the PG show that I’m accustomed to. Let’s keep it clean guys.
It’s not the PG show I’m used to either. That’s because it was an editing mistake. 🙂
S$@# happens once a decade LOL!
I just recently grabbed a couple of cans of the Minwax poly while passing through Arizona.
Unfortunately, if you live in California it’s very difficult to find any non-water based finish. Eventually the regulators will probably make any finishing in California illegal. At least it’s a narrow state so we’re always within driving distance where we can buy the good stuff.
Even though my go-to finish is pre-cat lacquer and catalyzed varnish at this point in my career, the finish I relied upon before that was Minwax wipe-on poly.
I have a lot of work out there for clients and even in commercial environments, such as offices and the local brew pub, and it has all held up wonderfully over the last 15 years.
Minwax wipe-on poly is the finish I recommend for beginners. It is readily available pretty much anywhere in the U.S. (where most of the questions come from) and it is super easy to apply.
When I showed at the Museum of the Rockies a couple of years ago, my chandelier was displayed over a gorgeous dining set by professional furniture maker and juried artist, Tim Carney of Helena, Montana. His favorite finish as a pro furniture maker is Minwax wipe-on poly. That is what he really uses every day.
Tim loves the way it goes on and how easy it was to create a flawless finish. After many years as a professional furniture maker, he swears by how durable it is for the dining sets he builds.
If you want to see his work, search for Tim Carney, Timothy’s Fine Woodworking, his site (if it is allowed here) is timothy’swoodworking.com
Look for the dining set titled The Madison. That is the dining set that was on display at the museum.
So there it is, you can produce a museum quality finish with Minwax wipe-on poly.
Your friend in the shop-
Todd A. Clippinger
American Craftsman Workshop
On the compass plane, I saw T Mac make his Bombay chest with that. Look around and try to watch this. It was in his old major league woodworking days.
You need to release the “R” rated version to all of us that didn’t hear you Guys make a mistake! LOL it can’t be as bad as the Drunken Woodworkers “Rockler” video! LOL
Actually I see no harm in people hearing it if they want to. Here’s a link: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6013584/WT_284.mp3 Skip to 40 minutes.
That episode needs to be re-uploaded…
Aww the dropbox link doesn’t work anymore haha I guess I don’t get to hear the cursing! lol
I knew it! Marc IS human. I think we can give a little grace for a HUMAN mistake. Now…I need someone to e-mail me the first version! lol
Just a quick note about the price of Minwax Wipe on Poly. If you search outside of Amazon it’s available for around $15 a quart. So it is still the lower cost option. At HD it’s at that price point too.
I have never used the wipe on Minwax ploy, I have always taken regular Minwax ploy and cut it with 25-50% mineral spirits and used that. I’ve been happy with the results, but has anyone here done a comparison between mixing it at home vs. using the pre-made mix?