WT203 – Mirror Frisbee

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On today’s show, we’re talking about wood warping after a resaw, trouble with a smoothing plane, and octagonal frame joinery.

What’s on the Bench?

– Marc is getting ready for the kitchen helper project and a future built-in project.
– Matt made a beard comb for Movember.
– Shannon – went to the Brown Tool sale and got a t-shirt.

What’s New

Cool cutting board design ideas!

Poll of the Week

Do you build holiday-themed projects?


– Billy feels relief now that he knows we advocate taking a break from the shop.
– Gary has thoughts on the workbench t-track discussion we had in Wood Talk #202.
– Tom wants to compliment us on our discussion of wood grain in Wood Talk #202. Tom’s Article.
– Kriss suggests his cool rig for handling box joints on long boards:

– Geoff enlightens us on what a “drop saw” is.


– John is looking for a hard sanding pad for his random orbit sander.


– Jared is wondering what to do with a few boards that warped after resawing.
– Kevin is making an octagonal frame and is pondering his joinery options.
– David has a question about getting decent results from his bevel up smoother.

Reviews and Thanks!

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17 replies on “WT203 – Mirror Frisbee”

Octagon Mirror

Shannon came close with the surface splines. But even easier and stronger:

1. Butt Joints for the octagon.
2. A piece of 1/4″ Luan Plywood subfloor – flush trimmed to the octagon – for a completely solid back
3. Reduce/trim the Luan to inset it a bit if you wish – bevel it back to give a reveal from the wall
4. Glue to the octagon – or screw if you are worried about future mirror access

Kudos to the kid with the box joint jig. Kind of a V-8 moment after you watch it. I hope he makes a zillion dollars from it…or at least enough to pay for college.

“Paul Sellers only sharpens to 150 grit”.

No, heactually sharpens to around 1200 on diamond plates and then uses a leather strop with honing compound, which is equivalent to something like 15000 in terms of a polish.

Here, he talks about how 250 grit is probably good enough for a lot of work. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbAo4RpM7oM But this is not what he does in practice. So watch the whole thing and take what he’s saying in context.

It was clear to me they were exagerating little bit. I am starting to think hand tool people have no sense of humor 🙂

Thanks Keith. I was as much respondeding to a recent Woodtalk Forum post where a guy was beating up another guy for wedging his tenons in the wrong direction. He wasn’t very nice about it and linked to a Paul Sellers post to defend his position. It just so happened I saw your post shortly after re-reading that one.

Smoother Plane Troubles

I was hoping that Shannon woud talk about puttig a camber on the blade. The guy with the trouble said that it was brand new plane and his first smoother. The blade is probably flat across its width and could be catching and causing tearout. Garrett Hack has a great video about setting up a smoother for excellent results over at Fine Woodworking.

I tried to put the link in here but the latest update to the iPad to iOS 8 has rendered copy paste non functional. Just search for Garrett Hack smoothing plane video.

I’ve had similar issues planning myself. As I paid more attention to Marc’s videos I found out I was advancing the blade too fast. I didn’t take the time to run the plane over a good portion of the board, I just pushed and if nothing happened turned the knob. Since my epiphany (thanks Marc) I take more time and go over more of the board before adjusting the depth of cut. Just a thought.

If you really want to be confused ask the guys at Lie-Nielsen about blade setup. They (especially Deneb) will tell you that you don’t need a camber, just the blade centered properly in the mouth.

I’ve done this myself, and it works quite nicely, but it takes a little fussing ahead of time to get it just right.

Would it be that difficult to build your own sander pad out of maple and just drill holes for the dust pattern and screws? I have no intent on doing this, but it seems this would be pretty straightforward for your average woodworker. Coat the maple with poly and use PSA discs or just cover it an adhesive-backed velcro.

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