WT236 – Saw Stop Sponsored This One

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Today’s show is sponsored by SawStop. Check them out at SawStop.com!

On today’s show, we’re talking about respirators in the wood shop, tips for staining pine, spraying finish on deep cabinets.

What’s on the Bench?

  • Marc took some time off
  • Matt still playing host to Bavarians
  • Shannon gave up on finishing weather and went back to work on his blanket chest

What’s New?

Poll of the Week

What are your tool storage preferences?

Kickback

  • Bob, Matt, and Chris all had great feedback on the MKII honing jig scandal from episode 234
  • Andrew and Jonathan both have great suggestions on woods for making a bow and Andrew suggested the Bingham Project
  • Paul is a design engineer for Graco and had some kickback about the Graco Sprayer mentioned in episode 234.

Voicemail

  • Joe wants to know what he should consider when buying lumber off Craig’s List

Email

  • Casey wants a recommendation on a good respirator for power carving and should he use a chemical filter
  • Richard needs some advice on making Pine or Poplar look like Walnut and Matt suggests an article from some “Whisperer Guy
  • Dave is looking for advice on spraying inside cabinets with his Earlex 5500

How You Can Support Us

Use the links in the left column and sign up for a recurring donation, kick it up a notch and wear a Wood Talk T-Shirt, or leave us an iTunes Review

11 replies on “WT236 – Saw Stop Sponsored This One”

hi guys love your show! question about the saw stop being its responsive to current. i tend to cut thin sheets of carbon fiber and was wondering if this would effect the circuit since i use my hand to push the sheets forward. how sensitive is the blade should my body is sending current thru the carbon sheet onto the blade itself? thanks!

Tee the real issue isn’t that your hands are near the blade it’s whether or not the material being cut is conductive. I could have the motor running and place my hands on the table close to the blade (not that I do that on purpose LOL) and it won’t fire the brake.

But if something conductive, like my fingers, were to come in direct contact with the blade while it’s running then the brake would fire.

There is a way to test the system to determine whether it will set off the brake. I discussed it in a video I posted about the SawStop Bypass system http://mattsbasementworkshop.com/sawstop-bypass-system-second-look/

Hopefully that answers your question.

Hey guys once again great show. I have a question for Matt and his experience with his SawStop. Have you ever had the brake engage do to the type of wood that was being cut? I’ve heard that if the moisture content is to high it could cause the brake to engage.

Looking forward to the next show.

Thanks

Kyle

This is actually a common topic that gets thrown around regarding the SawStop “it’ll fire the brake if the wood is wet.” I’m not saying it’s not possible it hasn’t happened, especially if someone is using pre-treated lumber (although I have doubts about it being the wood and more likely something else.)

My understanding is that a huge percent of brake mis-fires is because someone accidentally hit a staple (like those used to hold the tag on the wood,) or even more frequently, they knick their aluminum miter gauges and don’t realize it.

There is a quick and easy way to test whether a material is too wet or could possibly set off the brake cartridge, it’s using the built in Bypass system on the saw.

It’ll allow the user to take a test cut and then give feedback as to it’s conductivity. I talked about it in a video and post back in 2013 http://mattsbasementworkshop.com/sawstop-bypass-system-second-look/

Hope this helps.

Hey Guys,

Love the show. I’m relatively brand new to hobby level woodworking (since Jr High shop classes – 30 years ago!). I’m needing to upgrade my table saw (although seeing Shannon’s first semester free preview of the hand-tool school makes me rethink this).

I’ve looked at the jobsite, contractor and contractor saw with upgraded table and fence from sawstop and see 3 kinds of fence systems. My space would argue for the jobsite version, but given my current saw is bogging down in 8/4 maple and purpleheart (for the woodwhisperer end grain cutting board), I’m think the contractor saw with the bigger motor.

Are all three fences appropriate for hobbyist work or am I better off with the contractor saw with the “better” fences?

Thank you.

Otto

Hey guys!

Just some kickback regarding the listener question about finishing blotchy woods. My first major project was a toy chest I built for my son of solid poplar. After hearing that poplar could sometimes blotch (from the aforementioned video by Marc), I looked into various methods of dealing with this issue settled on a glue-size mixture. I found a helpful recipe on Lee Valley’s website (http://www.leevalley.com/us/shopping/TechInfo.aspx?type=a&p=47291) and used Titebond’s hide glue instead of the fish glue they list due to local availability. For the finish, I went with Marc’s wiping varnish and was very satisfied with the combined results.

I mention this in the event that it might be a more useful method for a hobbyist like myself who regularly uses hide glue and might only need a project-size amount at any given time.

Thanks for putting out a great show week-in, week-out!

John from North Wales

Thanks for the great shows, guys! In regards to Mark’s comments about the over-blade dust collection on SawStop’s accessory, I recently retrofitted that system onto my Powermatic cabinet saw. After hearing this episode, I wrote it up with some photos to hopefully help anyone else who is tired of being blasted in the face with sawdust – I think the method could probably work for any modern table saw. The post is here: http://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/18577-hybrid-dust-collection-for-my-table-saw/

Best,
Dane

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