WT280 – Blowout on the Back Side

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Today’s show is sponsored by TableLegs.com. Free shipping on first orders over $50. Enter “Wood Talk” in special instructions when you place your order.

On today’s show we’re talking about re-coating an old poly finish, bandsaw blades for curves, and correcting a rip hand saw cut.

What’s on the Bench?

  • Marc is gearing up to make some shop sawn veneer.
  • Matt is considering a lathe stand.
  • Shannon is building the Woodworkers Fighting Cancer table and chair project.

What’s New?

Kickback

  • John, Brian, and Joshua all have some great feedback on Amazon Handmade and a closer look at the not so good aspects about it. Joshua sent us a link to a maker that sheds some scary light onto the terms and conditions from Amazon.
  • Robert shared a scary story about static electricity blowing a breaker in his shop while sanding and confirms some of Matt’s advice on dust host static control from episode

Voicemail

  • Robert wants to know how to control tear out on the back side of the cut.
  • Lyle has a question about block planes for the mainly power tool user.

Email

  • Craig wants to know how to go about recoating a polyurethane finish
  • Jack has 3 questions about bandsaw blades for different situations
  • Kelly wants to know what we think about using the table saw to start a resaw cut then finishing it off with a bandsaw.

How You Can Support Us

Use the links in the left column and sign up for a recurring donation, kick it up a notch and wear a Wood Talk T-Shirt, or leave us an iTunes Review

7 replies on “WT280 – Blowout on the Back Side”

not to beat this horse in to the ground any more than necessary, but the recent conversations about ‘kerfing’ a board at the table saw to resaw on the band saw or with a hand saw reminded me of something I saw a while back, and I’m surprised I didn’t hear someone bring this up. Tom Fidgen created something on his video blog a while back that he calls a ‘Kerfing Plane’, which looks a little like the love child of a back saw and a grooving plane.
He starts the build here http://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/the-kerfing-plane-part-one.html
and shows it in use here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtmswWZ4Lvo

Funny you what you mentioned about backhanded comments… I got a whopper of a comment today… “Are you out of breath because what you are doing is actually more work than it looks like or is it because you are overweight? LOL! good thing I have pretty thick skin cuz these kinds of comments could hurt some peoples feelings…. I think somebody made a youtube user just for trolling since the user name was Don Trump. I responded to him honestly though.. I said… DE TODO UN POCO. Hope he speaks spanish or is smart enough to use Google Translate.

Regarding bandsaw baldes.

I am using a Minimax MM16 as my primary saw, I don’t have a table saw. As a result all my power cutting tasks are left to the bandsaw. The Minimax is my workhorse saw.

I am a big fan of the Highland Woodworker Wood Slicer bade. I resaw my own veneers and do a lot of bent lamination work. II also use my bandsaw to do the basic shaping cuts on curved pieces, some rough joinery and initial ripping tasks..

The Wood Slicer does all those thing very will. But, I was burning through the Slicer blades fairly rapidly and they can be expensive. After some discussion with the folks at Highland woodworking they convinced men to use a general purpose bladé for most of my work and to switch to the Slicer when I needed the accurate resaw capability.

I learned to change blades quickly and now I’m saving money and my resaw Slicer blades are always ready for the critical cuts.

My advice is; don’t use the more expensive Wood Slicer for general purpose work, rather use a general purpose blade on the saw and switch when you need the accuracy and finch that the Slicer offers. Switching takes minutes and I’m saving a bucket of money.

The general purpose blade also seems to last longer for those general tasks. Learn to change blades, you won’t regret it. Save the Slicer for the critical cuts.

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