On today’s show we’re talking about differences between rubber gloves, cleaning up squeeze out, troubleshooting an underperforming scraper, and letting boards rest after milling.
What’s On the Bench
- Marc: started building a bed and flaunts his tools
- Shannon: designing a new sharpening station
- Matt: playing with Lincoln logs and a sofa table
- Michael shared a link for some cool folding chairs
- Sean made a great video on router based inlay.
- There is a new woodworking podcast out there called The Dusty Life Podcast
- Eric has had no problems with his ResawKing blade on his 14″ bandsaw
- Daniel did go with the smaller dust collector and really like the space savings
- Ryan finally got a “real” dust collector and has stopped getting shocked by his shop vac
- Frank thinks our solutions for a 45 degree zero clearance insert won’t work because the blade will rise straight up.
- Jerkface42one informs us that David double dipped on his bench question with “that other podcast”
- Jeremy wants to know what kind of rubber glove we use for finishing and why. Marc found a link on the topic that goes into more detail than we will ever know.
- Bill is new to glue up and wants to know when to remove the dried glue so he doesn’t ruin his finish
- John isn’t getting glassy smooth surfaces from his card scraper and wants to know what he is doing wrong.
- Matt wants to know if we stack and sticker our lumber after milling and before moving on.
How You Can Support Us
Use the links in the left column and sign up for a recurring donation, kick it up a notch and wear a Wood Talk T-Shirt, or leave us an iTunes Review
13 replies on “WT291 – Matt’s Mom is Mad”
When are you going to put the new Matt’s picture on the website?
When time allows. 🙂
‘When time allows. :)” pffft 🙂
“Old Matt” approves!
We really can’t saw how wide of a blade the listener can run without knowing more abut his saw. It is not just the size of the bandsaw wheels or width of the tires that matter. It is also the overall strength of the machine and its ability to deal with the blade’s tension. Wider blades put more strain on the saw.
14″ bandsaws are a broad class of machines, encompassing everything from open stand models, to european-style machines like the Laguna 1412 and (cheating on size a little) Powermatic’s PM1500. A typical open-stand 14″ saw is under 200 pounds. A PM1500 is nearly 500 pounds. Needless to say one can handle more stress than the other. Saying 14″ bandsaw is kind of like saying 10″ tablesaw, which can mean anything from a $200 plastic jobsite saw to a $5000 cabinet saw.
Read this thread (but skip over the Grizzly quality debate), 2 different forum members have caused their small 14″ saws to fail by putting too much tension on the saw.
Building a workshop if it ever gets warm enough to finish. I know you have talked about this multiple times, but for an 17×21 shop, how many outlets, where (rafters, floor, walls). I am not big on floor outlets but looking for insight. Thanks love the show.
Seems to me the easiest solution to make the closest thing to a 45 degree zero clearance insert would be to run the stock material through the blade at 45 degrees using whatever current insert you have capable of the 45 degree tilt, fill the gap beyond the diameter of the saw blade after the cut is made to a sufficient depth, then cut the insert’s shape out afterward.
While this method would be much more time consuming, it would give you a true 45 degree insert that is completely intact and could be repeated for whatever degree measurement you wanted to have an insert for.
This is similar to what I would suggest. In this method you are making a cut through the insert instead of raising the blade through to make the opening for the blade. When fabricating your insert you typically have 6-8″ of flat surface between the radii on the front and back of the insert. Make a mark on the insert for the stopping point of the cut and make a mark on the table saw fence to correspond to the previous mark. Lift the blade and tilt to 45 degrees and carefully run the insert’s flat surface along the fence until your marks touch and stop the saw. Lower the blade, put the insert in and theoretically, you should have a 45 degree zero clearance insert.
I have a newer contractor saw (Delta 36-725) and made a 45 degree zero clearance as Marc suggested in the previous show.
I’m not sure if my email about the shaper debate got through or not so I figured I would try my kickback one more time. The key thing nobody is mentioning about starting with a shaper is they make out typically below 10,000 rpm. Routers that go in routers tables range from 10,000-22,000 rpm. Most hobbiest woodworkers are using bits that need to spin well above the speed that a shaper can handle. The only reason I’m motivated to send this kickback in again is because I made this costly mistake when i first started woodworking. I also own both tools now so i can speak first hand that buying a shaper over a router table for most woodworkers is a very very very bad idea. I think this is worth some kickback on the show because i promise 99% of the people that go spend the money on a shaper vs a router table will be very disappointed. The tables on the cheaper models are also very small and the fences are TERRIBLE. Trust me been there done that. Great show guys i absolutely love it.
I don’t understand why it is a bad idea. Yes a shaper runs at lower RPMs but with the proper cutters they do a great job.
It really depends on what you are building. If you do a lot of raised panels or cope and stick doors then a shaper is better. For pattern routing either will do. For edge work a router table is better. For most joinery a router table is better altough you can cut nice clean tenons in a single pass on a shaper.
Couldn’t agree more with the proper cutters they are amazing and if you are doing a lot of raised panels they are amazing. It is a lot harder to get shaper bits locally though and even the big online places dont have great selections. My post was more in the context that if you can only have one tool I think you limit yourself a lot with just a shaper because you can’t just throw a regular router bit in and call it good. The discussions previously made it sound like you just grab a collet adapter for the shaper and go and people need to realize this just isn’t the case. So in short I totally agree if you are going to get a shaper they will work great if you plan on buying shaper bits. If you think you are going to toss a tiny little router bit in and get good results you will be disappointed. And again the table and fence on the smaller shapers are horrible.
I have a picture I can send you as well. It is worth a thousand words trust me. It is a picture of a 1/4″ spiral bit, sitting next to my shaper spiral bit. It’s hilarious but brings the point home.